Discovering NC Agriculture: Cooking like the pros with NC tomatoes

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Discovering NC Agriculture is a year-long series focusing on twelve N.C. grown, raised, caught, and made commodities. Tune in each month to see how an N.C. commodity is grown, harvested, packed for consumer use and more. Learn nutritional value, find fun recipes to try, hear from local chefs who use that product, and other unique commodity facts throughout the series. We look forward to helping you better understand some of our N.C. commodities and how they impact your everyday lives! 

Tomatoes are the foundation of many dishes, including any type of salsa. Personal Chef Benni Cantoran has used them his entire culinary career and experimented with many of the varieties grown in North Carolina. From salsa to Al Pastor, Chef Cantoran is an expert in using local tomatoes to create dishes that customers love.

After graduating from college, Chef Benni started working in a Vietnamese kitchen in California. “I learned a lot while I was working there, including how to cook with local ingredients like mushrooms and tomatoes,” he said. “My love for cooking truly ignited in that kitchen, especially in making things from scratch.” Upon moving to North Carolina, Benni took a job at Ashten’s in Southern Pines to continue his culinary journey. Not only did he work at Ashten’s, but he also received culinary training that launched him into his professional career as a chef. “I learned many things about the local food scene while working at Ashten’s that has helped me appease customers through the years,” he said. Today, Chef Cantoran is working as a Personal Chef and bringing a variety of dishes to customers across the state.

With Hispanic roots, Chef Benni grew up surrounded by tomatoes in salsa and entrée dishes. “Tomatoes are the base for about eighty percent of Mexican dishes,” he said. “I like to be consistently inconsistent with my cooking, which means that I like to create dishes people are used to seeing with a slightly unique taste each time.” From salsa and stew to Pico de Gallo and Sopitas, Chef Benni uses a variety of tomatoes in his cooking. “I use a lot of Yellow Brandywine, German Slicing and Sun Gold tomatoes,” he said. “Recently, I have been fascinated by heirloom tomatoes and how they can bring not only a unique flavor, but also color to a dish.” In fact, he has started experimenting with the Cherokee Purple tomatoes in recent months.

All tomatoes used by Chef Cantoran are purchased locally from farmers and farmers markets in the state. He also purchases a variety of other local products on a regular basis, including beef and mushrooms. “I love supporting local farmers by purchasing ingredients grown right here in North Carolina,” he said. “It takes me back to my roots of growing up on a farm. Not only can I support the farmers and the community in that way, but also add enhanced flavor, beauty and variety to my dishes.”

One of Chef Benni’s favorite dishes to make is Brandywine Salsa, which features charred Brandywine tomatoes, pineapple, tomatillos, and habanero peppers. He was kind enough to share this recipe with us. Check it out below and try it for yourself!

Salsa Amarilla con Jitomate Brandywine y Habanero (aka Brandywine Salsa)

Ingredients: 

  • 3 large yellow Brandywine tomatoes, ripe and juicy
  • 1/4 cup ripe pineapple (macerated) – see note below
  • 2 small yellow habanero chiles, stemmed (seeds optional for less heat)
  • 1 medium white onion, quartered
  • 4 cloves garlic, skin on
  • 1/2 lime
  • 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • 1 tsp. vegetable oil or rendered pork fat (for blending richness)
  • Optional: 1/4 cup chicken or vegetable broth for thinning
  • Optional: A small pinch of turmeric for color depth (just a pinch)

Method Terms/Notes: 

  • Macerate: A technique used to soften fruit in a liquid, such as vinegar, water, or by using sugar to draw out natural juices.
  • For the pineapple, use 3 tablespoons of sugar and let sit in the fridge for 2 hours. Best results overnight.

Instructions: 

  1. Char the Base:
    1. On a hot comal or cast-iron skillet, roast the Brandywine tomatoes, onion, garlic, and habaneros until deeply blistered and aromatic – about 8 minutes.
    2. In a separate small pan, slightly heat up the pineapple on low heat for 2 minutes.
    3. Turn the vegetables occasionally for even charring. The garlic should soften in its skin; the tomatoes should collapse slightly.
  2. Peel & Prep:
    1. Once cool enough to handle, peel the garlic and remove any overly blackened tomato skin if you prefer a smoother flavor (optional).
    2. If you want to dial down the heat, remove habanero seeds here.
  3. Blend:
    1. Add all roasted ingredients to a blender along with the lime juice, salt, turmeric, and oil. Blend until smooth and silky.
    2. Taste. Add broth a splash at a time if you prefer a thinner consistency & adjust salt.
  4. Finish (Optional Fry):
    1. For extra flavor, you can pour the blended salsa into a hot pan with a touch of oil and simmer for 5 to 7 minutes to mellow and marry the flavors.
    2. Stir constantly, until you develop a gorgeous color.
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